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Quite
a few recent recruits to the model car fraternity take for granted
the wide range of Australian model cars now readily available.
Not too many years back, collectors had no chance of purchasing
your favourite Torana or Commodore race hero’s weapon. The only
way of bringing their car to life in miniature was to do it yourself.
You either had to modify existing model car body from a kit or resort
to the few resin/fibreglass bodies available. This literally meant
that an experienced and skilled modeller would need to spend many
hours, cutting, drilling, filing, puttying, and generally trying
to mould the somewhat imperfect resin bodies into some thing that
resembled the real thing. This was indeed a challenge even to the
best of modellers. Once you have undertaken such a task, only then
can appreciate and respect those with the inspiration, patience
and skill to create their own models. Such a person is Peter Currans.
Indeed, he has created his own private collection of Brock models,
based on both his racing and road vehicles.
Accordingly,
Peter is our first winner of Model of the Month and will receive
for his efforts, the Brock Back To Bathurst
DVD. From the team, we thank you for sharing your fabulous
collection with us all. Over the next few weeks we will bring more
pictures from his collection and some interesting bits and pieces
about his adventures with miniature modelling Once again, well-done
Peter.
Without
giving away his entire secret modelling tips, Peter was kind enough
to give us an insight into how he created his own collection.
The
Inspiration - I built this
model, as it was the best looking of the old Group C cars. With
its striking colour scheme it stood out and this was the first
race that I went to when I was a kid. I still remember the
race as it was yesterday. This is my favourite Brock car, up until
I get the 1979 A9X completed.
The
Body and Chassis -The chassis is from the 1/24 Tamiya
BMW 635CSI Group A Touring Car kit, which was cut and shortened
to match the fibreglass body's wheelbase. The model consists of
the fibreglass body that I have modified by making headlights and
taillights from Perspex. The body cost around $20 and the Plastic
kit $40 I had seen the body in a model catalogue and ordered it
from a place called C&P Auto Modelling Supplies which is now known
as Jaymar. The wheels are also from the Tamiya BMW kit modified
with plastic card into a five star design. The body comes pretty
basic so you need to cut the holes for the windows the wheel arches
and bonnet if you are going to see the engine. You then sand with
fine grade paper prime the body and check for imperfections, fill
with body filler if needed then I leave in primer until all body
modifications are done.
The
Interior - The interiors do not need much modification as they
are all ready race interiors the only change I made was the door
panels, as the BMW is a two door and the commodore is four door,
I make new ones from plastic card. The Commodore style dash is supplied
with the body.
The
Engine – The engine for this model came from a NASCAR kit, with
additional detailing such as wiring the dizzy and making the air
box and exhaust. The exhaust pipes are made from wire solder and
then painted.
The
Underbody - The under body is basically the Tamiya kit with
modifications such as a new tailshaft, from the NASCAR kit along
with the diff and rear suspension from the rear axle back. The
spare tyre well is cut off and plastic card glued into place, the
old tyre well is then cut in two glued to form the commodore spare
tyre well and a drop tank made from plastic card and covered with
bare metal foil.
The Paintwork - All the
paintwork was airbrushed. The body was sprayed white and let
dry for several days. It was then masked to form the day glow
orange paint scheme once dry, and the black outline around
the windows was painted in.
Decals
- The decals on the car are a mixture of different decal sheets
that I have bought over many years. The Marlboro decals are Virages
decals from France and the numbers are M'nJ decals as are the
names and sponsors. Others I have made using decadry rub on letters
onto clear decal sheet.
Tools
- The handiest tool for the fibreglass bodies is a Dremel
tool makes cutting the windows out and cleaning the bodies so much
quicker and easier. Other, more obvious tools utilised being needle
files, modellers knife, small side cutters etc. Scratch
Built Items - Scratch items built are, headlights, taillights, exhaust
system, roll cage, windows, seatbelts, drop tank, rear suspension
and interior door panels.
The
Challenge - The biggest challenge with this type of model is
to carefully plan the stages of construction. While you are working
on one section of the car, you can be doing something to another
part of the car. There is much time waiting for paint to dry and
glue to bond, so plan what you can do next. Don’t rush things.
These models take time to put together, and most of my cars have
taken several months to put together.I undertook all the work
on this model with no outside assistance. Most parts were sourced
through mail order kits etc
Model
of the Month – June 2003
– Peter Currans
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